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April 7, 2003
This week's question:
“Can braising work well for vegetables too?”
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I've read your article on
braising
meat. Can vegetables also be braised?
—From a Vancouver Island fan, Brian
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Dear Brian,
Braising is a terrific way to soften the cellulose and swell the
starches of robust vegetables, applying the same principles as with
braising meat. Slow cooking and a small amount of liquid, such as broth,
water, apple cider, a touch of wine or flavored vinegar or a combination
of these. Be sure to add a splash of an acidic ingredient such as
vinegar to red cabbage, as acids shift the color of the anthocyanin
pigments to an appealing red rather than allowing them to slip into the
blue tones.
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Use hearty vegetables that won't fall apart. Those that are starchy,
such as winter squash, sweet potatoes and parsnips braise well, because
it takes time for their starch cells to absorb the flavorsome liquid and
swell. Also consider fennel, red cabbage, beets, carrots and kale.
Choose one or a combination, cutting them so they cook in approximately
the same time. Or begin cooking the denser vegetables first.
Heat a heavy pan, add a small amount of oil and sauté aromatics such as
leeks or onions to develop flavors as they brown. Then add the remaining
vegetables, liquids (roughly half the volume of the vegetables) and
seasonings. The more assertive spices and herbs will retain their
character during long cooking. Cinnamon and cloves are fabulous with red
cabbage. Try thyme with squash. Rosemary with fennel.
Cover tightly, bring to a boil, then reduce the heat so the vegetables
braise at a gentle simmer. Or use a slow oven 300° to 325° F (149° - 163°
C). Braising can take 30 minutes to 2 hours, depending on the vegetable,
its density and the size of the pieces. Cook until the vegetables are
tender when pierced with a fork. Remove, keep them warm and boil to
reduce the remaining liquid to a flavorsome sauce or syrupy glaze.
Long, slow cooking develops gutsy flavors, yet softens fibers, so
textures are soothing rather than crisp. Braising changes vegetables so
they're quite unlike their raw or lightly-cooked counterparts. But of
course, that was the intention all along.
Enjoy,
Anne & Sue
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