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"
Why
are the ends of even farm-fresh asparagus always tough?
"
Dear
Anne and Sue,
Why are the ends of even farm-fresh asparagus always
tough? And how can I keep its vibrant green color?
—From Suzanne Fingold
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Like
other green vegetables, the color of asparagus comes
from chlorophyll, one of the most sensitive pigments
found in food. When vegetables are raw, their pigments
are isolated from the natural plant acids within each
cell. But as cell walls soften during cooking, plant
acids diffuse, coming in contact with chlorophyll. The
acid reacts with the chlorophyll and chemically changes
the bright green pigment in chlorophyll to a drabber
form. You'll notice that the longer asparagus cooks,
the more unappetizing its color becomes.
Keeping chlorophyll vibrant means cooking green vegetables
quickly. Asparagus is delicious steamed, grilled, or
stir-fried. If you are cooking it in boiling water,
bring the water to the boil, add the asparagus and cook
just a few minutes. Leave the lid ajar to allow some
plant acids to escape with the steam and other to dissolve
in the water.
Asparagus in season—tender and succulent, with
flavors at their prime—is a wonderful reminder
of the benefits of buying locally, when produce is at
its best.
Anne
and Sue
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